Watson's Bay Coastal Hike

TripAdvisor is my new best friend. The website offers the excellent resource of recommending adventurous activities, both tourist-heavy and local favourites. Upon researching last week, I discovered the Watson's Bay Cliff Hike, with blogger commentary recommending pairing the trip with a ferry ride in from and city and and a fish and chips lunch at Doyle's, a beachfront restaurant. Not needing to read more, I had planned my Saturday.

Reading up on Watson's Bay in preparation for the excursion, I discovered the hike is at the very top of large, rocky cliffs, and suiciders have been prone to choose the location to end their lives. The spot also has a history of hosting murders - successful murders, in fact, as it is difficult to prove if the persons had been pushed, or if they had instead jumped. Intrigued, I was looking forward to visiting the historical location. 

I successfully rode my first ferry into Watson's Bay - even scoring a coveted outdoor seat on the second level. Realizing I had never seen the ocean-side of the Opera House, I snapped more than a few photos during the trip. 

Upon arrival, I set off to hunt for Doyle's, eager to taste the popular fish and chips that prompted visitors to write such rave reviews on its behalf. My excitement was abruptly halted, however, when I viewed the sign "Cash Only" - nothing I read had mentioned this requisite. Digging through my stash of emergency cash, I discovered I was only carrying $10, not enough to purchase the $13.50 meal. The amount was too sparse, in fact, for anything on the menu. Disappointed and hungry (anticipating the high calorie meal, I had skimped on breakfast), I unpacked my meagre snack supply of almonds and an apple and set off for the hike. 

Sure enough, in addition to wire-fencing near the cliff perimeter, there were signs every few yards attempting to persuade people off the ledge. 

I soon reached the end of the hike. Very soon. The internet bloggers had made the adventure seem Yosemite-esque, stating, "Wear your hiking shoes!" and "Be prepared for stairs!" Thinking I was embarking on an adventure similar to Nevada Falls, I had anticipated a nice workout. When I realized I was already at the end, however, I hadn't even touched my water bottle. 

Not ready to turn around, I set off to hike around town - noting every turn so I wouldn't get lost. (Five countries and numerous cities later, I am finally learning what they call "Street smarts." It's a relief to not get lost too frequently!) Aimlessly wandering the streets, I stumbled across a sign that announced "Coastal Cliff Walk." At first confused, it then began to make sense why TripAdvisor claimed the hike to have few tourists - likely because they couldn't find it! I'm not sure what the previous hike I completed was, but I had, simply by accident, arrived at my intended destination. 

I noted this hike was extra spectacular, due to its policy to allow dogs off-leash. I passed Labs and German Shepards, and one couple with more than a few tiny fluffy white dogs skipping about, who at one point I heard state, "Gather the kids, it's time to move on!" These are my people. 

Within a short time I began to succumb to the fact that an apple and some almonds were not going to hold me over for the day; I was ready for lunch at any price, at any location. Stumbling upon a closet-sized cafe called Little Grumpies, I indulged in a chicken sandwich that featured an avocado-corn-salsa dressing on sourdough bread. The meal cost more than my entire day's combined travel fares, but was perhaps the best sandwich I have ever encountered. 

Eventually I strolled back to the Watson's Bay Beach, planning to scope out a shady spot to read and leisurely enjoy the afternoon. I met a girl from China, who mentioned she was excited about being in Australia so that, no longer under communist rule, she could open a Facebook account. Talk about a perspective-inducing conversation.

Happy with the day, I decided to hop on the ferry back to Sydney and spend the evening relaxing at home. Of course, this didn't happen. 

The ferry from Watson's Bay to Sydney had a stop-over in an area called Rose Bay. As it pulled up to the dock, I whimsically decided to hop out and explore. When else was I going to find myself in Rose Bay, Australia? I found a simple town with a leisurely path adjacent to the ocean that I hiked around for perhaps an hour, and once again, happy with the day, I decided it was a sufficient time to head home. This is where, by all means, the story should end. Of course, that would have been too easy. 

After deciding to take the bus home, I was about halfway to Sydney when I noticed we were passing through Bondi, the beach I had traveled to with my housemate last week and embarked on the spectacular hike. How, I questioned, can I be in Australia, pass through Bondi - the number one ranked destination in Sydney - and not pay it a visit? Noting that I still felt relatively fresh after my approximately 12 mile morning, I decided this could be a great opportunity to visit Coogee Beach, the final stretch of the Coastal Hike my housemate and I hadn't completed. Viewing the 3 p.m. sun preparing to move in the downward direction and my iPhone - AKA map/ lifeline to help in case of emergency - at 10% battery, I made a spontaneous decision and, despite all odds, took a leap of faith off the bus. 

Walking with purpose, I set off through Bondi, Tamarama, and Brente Beaches - all destinations I had visited before. As the afternoon did not offer much wind, the water was a magical turquoise color. (Unfortunately, as my phone was on its last leg, I kept it turned off and didn't snap many pictures.)

(Above: a woman swimming with her lab in a secluded area of the ocean. AKA Heaven.)

Walking through the path after Brente Beach - the first stretch of new land I was encountering - I noticed the grounds were littered with giant statues. As I made my way closer, I was shocked to discover they were grave stones. I wasjustifiably  shocked that the number one tourist destination in Sydney - a stunning location hosting beautiful, sparkling, turquoise ocean views - doubles as a graveyard??? I couldn't help but realize how death seems to be following me on this trip. First I was hired as a Funeral Salesman (and subsequently turned the position down) - then I was re-hired as a Funeral Salesman (which I turned down again) -  then I visited the site famous for its large suicide/ murder rates - then I took an innocent hike to land smack in the middle of a giant graveyard. This is not the underlying theme I was hoping for when planning my year abroad. 

As the sun creeped lower and lower, I couldn't help but notice that Coogee Beach is quite a significant distance from Bondi. I continued to stumble across stretches of land that allowed me to become optimistic, thinking I may have arrived, only to learn that I was not at my intended destination. The more miles I traveled, the more thoughts of calling it a day crossed my mind, but I kept pushing myself, not wanting to quit on Coogee twice. It wasn't until two hours later, for a grand total of three hours on this coastal walk, that I had finally reached the seemingly unreachable Coogee Beach. After all that effort, I snapped two quick photos and b-lined to the bus stop. 

After three tourist destinations and what I estimate to be 20 total miles of hiking, I slept 16 hours that night. I'd say it was a pretty great Saturday.